Remember from our “Rope Terminology” learning module, that the word “hitch” means to tie a rope into an object.  Why might you do that – tie a rope to an object?  In canyoneering, we tie into a lot of “objects” so that we can rappel, build anchors, and even belay people.

The Clove Hitch is primarily used for forming the famous “biner (pronounced “bean-er”) block”. 

This is used when we want to rappel single-strand (also called SRT (Single-Rope Technique) but we need to create a “block” so that we can retrieve our ropes when we touch the bottom.  This allows us at the anchor point to rappel off one-side of the rope strand and NOT the other.  If NEED to rappel off the blocked strand.  If you rappel on the other strand, you fall all the way to ground with no resistance.  There have been a few accident reports of people becoming complacent, or they didn’t know what they were doing, and did this exact same thing!  One person is very lucky to survive especially as the person fell 90+ ft off a free-hang straight into the sand below.  Others have not been so lucky and ended up losing their life.  YOU MUST pay attention, every time, at every rappel, to make sure that everyone is rappelling on the correct strand of the rope.

There have been some reports of the clove hitch moving or unraveling due to an incorrect tying, using extreme force, not dressing the knot, and not subsequently “testing” (or loading the rappel) before a person rappels.

Since those reports have come out, the canyoneering community has now suggested moving to what’s called the “Triple-Clove Hitch“.  This will ensure that knot cannot come undone, all while keeping it still easy to tie.  All you add is another loop to the standard clove hitch with the carabiner going through all 3 loops.

Pros:

• Easy to tie/untie.

• Can be tied with one hand.

Cons:

• Does not allow for a lowering method if the rappeller was to become stuck for whatever reason.  

• This is where having a second rappelling rope would be crucial.

Caution:

• After hearing a report of the clove hitch coming undone (because it wasn’t dressed properly), the community in response to keep beginners safer are recommending the “Triple Clove”.  This is tied by simply adding one more loop (or twist) in the rope and having the carabiner go through all three loops.

• Avoid use on slick or stiff ropes without additional security (such as tying a “triple clove hitch”).

Canyoneering Usage Examples:

• Use it set up a block system rappel.

• Quickly attaching a rope to a carabiner when creating a temporary anchor system.

Additional Reading:

• Wikipedia.org: “Clove hitch”

• CanyoneeringUSA.com: “Biner Blocks and Pull Cord Techniques for Backcountry Canyoneering”

• Canyoneering.net: “Need-To-Know Canyon Knots”

• DyeClan.com: “Clove Hitch”