Figure 8 Knot

The Figure 8 Knot is used in Canyoneering primarily for creating a “load carrying” loop.  Once tied correctly, you can attach a carabiner to it (by using the Figure 8 Knot on a bight) and then use that to clip it into things such as harnesses (or use the Figure-8 Follow-through knot), anchors, or items (such as to raise/lower things). 

This stopper knot is the same as a Figure 8 Follow-through, however, this by itself, is more of a “stopper knot”.  In canyoneering, these are sometimes used as stopper knots – which is tied at the end of a rope where the group can not verify if the rappelling rope has reached the bottom – and prevents the rappeller from falling off the strand if not paying attention.

The Figure 8 knot (and its variations) one that gets frequently in the sport, due to how often you are transitioning to/from rappels and clipping into things/people/anchors. 

This is knot is easy to memorize and tie.  

Everyone in your group should learn how to do this and know the variations of this knot.

Also using the Figure 8 Knot, there is a way of joining (called a “bend”) two ropes together, but it is called the Figure 8 Bend.

Pros:

• Larger and more secure than an overhand knot for stopping rope ends.

• Easy to tie, inspect, and untie.

Cons:

• Slightly bulkier than an overhand, potentially snagging in tight rope systems.

Caution: 

• Ensure proper dressing to maintain its function as a stopper.

• The usage of this stopper knot by itself is in the “it depends” scenario. 

• You would NEVER tie this on Class C canyons where there is an active water current.

• You may consider using the knot when you can’t see if the rappelling rope has reached the bottom or not, and you would use it as a “stopper knot”.  Meaning, that if you were to reach the bottom of the rope (due to inattentiveness or other factors), you won’t fall off the end of the rope. This knot would literally stop so you wouldn’t do so.

Canyoneering Usage Examples:

• Used on the rappelling rope when you can’t see if the rope has reached the bottom or not.

• Securing rope tails in belay systems or rappel backups.

Additional Reading:

• Wikipedia.org: “Figure-eight knot”