Canyoneering Terminology

Abseil – A German word that literally means “down rope” (“ab” = down, “seil” = rope).  Non-U.S. folks will use this term to do what people living in the United States call “rappelling”.  In other words, it means exactly the same thing as going down the rope.

 

Anchor – this is what we refer to where your rappel rope will be connecting to, e.g. a tree trunk, a large rock or boulder, a bolted anchor on the wall, or even a “meat anchor” which means using a person(s).  Your rappelling weight (which also means force in this context) will all be held up by this “anchor”.  Sometimes you will hear the term “bomber anchor”.  It means that the anchor is installed properly and is going to hold a lot of weight/force.  A “marginal” anchor is less than ideal one due to the lack of bolts or natural objects (tress, roots, rocks, sand, and water) in a canyon, or a flat out poorly installed anchor (and location). 

 

Approach – this is the (hiking) path that you take from the trailhead to reach the literal slot-canyon portion. Some involve a 5 minute hike and others might take you 5 hours (or more) just to reach the canyon itself.

 

Ascend – to climb UP a rope.  One must use a special system in order to climb a rope, in case you cannot retrieve your rappelling rope.

 

ATC – a famous descender/rappel device made by Black Diamond.  The better version to use for canyoneering is the ATC-XP as it contains “teeth” which adds another “mode” to add friction while you rappel.  They range between $20-30 and have their pros and cons.  The canyoneering community doesn’t suggest using an ATC-XP unless for the shortest of rappels (less than 50 feet) as one cannot add more friction while rappelling, and one cannot lock off the device.  

 

ATS – a descender/rappel device made by Sterling.  

 

Autoblock – a friction hitch tied with a loop of rope or webbing around the rappel rope and attached to the harness.  It acts as a backup break while rappelling, allowing the canyoneer to stop automatically (but not guaranteed) if they let go of the rope.  This knot provides an additional safety measure, especially useful on long rappels or in case of hand fatigue, as it slows or stops the descent if control is lost.

 

Belay – refers to a technique used to provide safety to a climber or canyoneer during a descent or ascent. It involves managing the rope to control the descent speed and prevent falls. The belayer uses a belay device to create friction on the rope, allowing them to catch a fall or control the descent. This technique is especially important during rappelling, where the belayer ensures the safety of the person descending by maintaining tension on the rope and being prepared to stop their fall if necessary. A “Fireman’s belay” is this type of example.

 

Belay Loop – This loop is found on rappelling harnesses and is distinguishable by the off-color one from the other loops.  This is the life-supporting loop where you attach yourself via a carabiner or load-bearing knot to the rappel device or P.A.S (Personal Anchor System) or safety tether.

 

Belayer – the title of the person performing the bottom-rope belay or top-rope belay.

 

Bend (rope) – in rope terminology, a “bend” is what is the correct name for when you want to join two ropes together via a knot.  IE – Double Fisherman Bend, Water Bend (if using two different strands of webbing).

 

Beta – the information that contains that always changing canyon conditions or route information.  “Beta” in software terminology means that the software is changing and not complete.  Or in other words, expect change.  Likewise with canyoneering.  If you read about a report of a group going down having an epic time, you may or may not experience the same thing.  So go in prepared for changing conditions.  Primarily when it comes to water in the canyon.  There could be more or less.  And that could make it easier or harder!  That’s why the term “beta” is used.  The information is only accurate as the day it was published.  To be fair though, beta providers do change their information if they hear anything from the community.  But water levels and anchor conditions are the primary changing factors in canyoneering.

 

Bight (rope) – an “Old English” word with Germanic origin meaning “a bend or angle”.  In rope terminology, the curved section of the rope that is being tied into a knot. Commonly mistaken as a “loop”.

 

Biner (same as Carabiner) – pronounced “bean-er” and is slang for the full-name of Carabiner.  Canyoneers will use the two words: “biner” and “carabiner” interchangeably.  There is no difference between except, the word “carabiner” has 4 syllables while “biner” has 2 so it’s faster to say the latter.

 

Biner Block – an option of a static-block used for rigging a rappel.  A carabiner is used in conjugation with a hitch knot, such as a clove hitch.  A carabiner that is bigger than the quicklink/rapide is a must.  

 

Bivy (same as Bivouac/Bivy) – the English shortened word for Bivouac (pronounced “biv-oo-ack”). A French, low German word – “biwacht” meaning “by guard”.  In canyoneering, rock-climbing, or even hiking, to take a bivy means to take an unplanned or temporary camp.  Sometimes in canyoneering, especially on canyons that involve 8+ hours, it is suggested to “plan for a bivy”, meaning to bring an extremely light sleeping bag and tarp to sleep on in case plans take longer than expected.  Some refer to a “emergency blanket” as a bivy, and indeed that it is what it is used for.  You can buy more expensive (and more comfortable) as they offer complete protection from the elements and bugs) such as ones made by REI, Outdoor Research, and SOL.  They range from $100 – $250 and that is essentially the “tent”, but you would still need to buy the sleeping bag bivy in addition.  You do not need a bivy for small canyon trips, but anything longer than 8+ hours it may be a good idea to bring one.  Please do more research on bivy options before buying the first one that you see online.  You do want to carry excessive gear in your canyoneering bag.

 

Bolt – a man-made anchor that is drilled into rock.  The two most common types of bolt types are “glue-ins” and “expansion”.  Just remember this safety note, just because you see a bolt in the rock doesn’t mean that it is readily safe and usable. Remember to check every anchor, every trip, every time.  If there is movement into the bolt when pulled on, DO NOT use it.  Reevaluate anchor situation at that location and proceed.  This is why we stress in that every canyoneer should bring 30+ft of webbing with them to every canyon.

 

Bolt Kit – a set of tools and hardware used to install permanent anchors in the rock for safe rappelling and climbing. It typically includes bolts, hangers, a drill (often a hand drill for remote locations), and other necessary tools. Bolt kits are used when natural anchors are insufficient, allowing canyoneers to create reliable anchor points. However, placing bolts is often considered a last resort and may be restricted in some areas to preserve the natural environment.

 

“Bolt Wars” – refer to conflicts within the community over the ethical use of bolts for anchors in canyons. Some canyoneers advocate for minimal or no bolting, aiming to preserve the natural environment and challenge themselves by using natural anchors. Others believe bolts are essential for safety, especially in high-traffic areas or challenging canyons where natural anchors may not be available.

 

These differing perspectives can lead to tensions, with some individuals adding bolts and others removing them. The term “bolt wars” reflects this ongoing debate over balancing safety, environmental impact, and the “purity” of the canyoneering experience.

 

Boulder – A large rock that can obstruct passage or provide potential climbing holds.

 

Brake hand – the hand that controls the descent speed while rappelling. By gripping and applying tension to the rope below the rappel device, the brake hand slows or stops the descent.

 

Bridging – this is a “canyon sequencing” technique used to traverse a slot canyon.  See Section 29 – “Moving (Sequencing) in a Slot Canyon.  One would place both hands on one wall of the canyon and their feet on the opposite and you would move by moving perpendicular to the canyon one appendage at a time.

 

Cairn – a small stack of rocks used as a marker to show the route or the location of an anchor. Cairns help guide canyoneers through complex terrain or indicate safe descent points.

 

Candition.com – a word that combines “condition” and “canyon” together in a memorable name.  A free website that is crowd-sourced that allows canyoneers to post “conditions” on their recent canyon trip.  They are brief reports on water and anchor conditions, and anything out of the ordinary to report so that anyone can get relevant information for trip planning.  However, canyons can dry out quickly, anchors can be changed (or removed) with each passing party, or storms can pass and quickly refill the canyon water found in the canyon.  Caution is highly recommended that you do not take each “candition” as your expectation.  That is unwise and potentially dangerous.  It is to be used to help assist or aid in canyon planning/research so that one can be aware of new hazards or issues that are found within the canyon.

 

Canyon – A deep, narrow valley with steep sides, often carved by water.

 

Canyoneer – a person who explores and descends canyons, often using techniques like hiking, scrambling, rappelling, and swimming to navigate challenging terrain.

 

Canyoneering – Canyoneering is the sport of exploring and descending canyons using a mix of hiking, climbing, rappelling, and swimming to navigate through rocky terrain, narrow slots, and waterfalls.

 

Carabiner – a strong, metal loop with a spring-loaded gate, used for connecting various components of the climbing or rappelling system. They play a crucial role in safely attaching ropes, harnesses, anchors, and other equipment. Each carabiner has a strength rating measured in kilonewtons, indicating how much force it can withstand before it fails. Proper selection, use, and regular inspection of carabiners are essential.

Key types of carabiners include:

• Locking Carabiners: These feature a locking mechanism that prevents accidental opening, enhancing safety.

• Non-locking Carabiners: Simpler and lighter, these are used for quick connections where a lock isn’t necessary.

Chimneying – this is a “canyon sequencing” technique used to traverse a slot canyon.  See Section 28 – “Moving (Sequencing) in a Slot Canyon.  In this technique, one places their hands against one wall and their back (or rear end) against the opposite wall.  Rather than rappelling, one could “chimney” down a particular section using this method.

 

Chockstone – A rock that is wedged in a narrow part of the canyon, often creating a natural obstacle.

 

Colorado Plateau – in simplistic terms, a very large desert plateau that extends from parts of Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico.  In Utah alone, there are over 650 documented slot canyons. In fact, some canyon obsessed folks, even relocate to Utah strictly for the canyoneering aspect alone!  See Wikipedia.com for more information on the Colorado Plateau.

 

Contingency – refers to a planned response to potential emergencies or unexpected situations that may arise during a descent or traverse. This could include having backup gear, alternative routes for exit, or specific protocols for addressing injuries or equipment failure.

 

CRITR – a specialized rappelling device used in canyoneering that provides adjustable friction for controlled descents. Shaped like a figure-8 with additional features, it allows canyoneers to easily change friction mid-rappel, enhancing safety on long or variable descents.

 

Cryptobiotic Soil – delicate, living soil crust found in desert environments, made up of organisms like algae, fungi, and bacteria. It helps prevent erosion and supports plant life, so EVERYONE take care to avoid stepping on it to protect the fragile ecosystem, especially where water is scarce.

 

Crux – refers to the most difficult or technically challenging section of a canyon route. This could involve a particularly steep or tricky descent, a complex rappel, a challenging climb, or an obstacle that requires advanced skills to navigate. The crux is often the point that requires careful planning, skill, and sometimes specific gear (e.g. water anchor, sand trap) to overcome, making it a critical part of the planning process.

 

Descender Device (same as “Rappel Device“) – is a piece of equipment specifically designed to control the descent of a canyoneer when rappelling. These devices create friction on the rope, allowing the user to manage their speed and safely descend vertical or steep surfaces. Examples include: figure-eight, ATC, rappel rack, CRITR, SQUWREL, and more.

 

Double Strand – refers to a specific setup where two strands of rope (typically, from the same rope) are used for a rappel or to create an anchor.  Imagine coming to a bolted-anchor at a rappel and put one side of the rope through the rapide and the other side through the other. It does not need to be equal, however, they BOTH need to be touching the ground.  Your descender device then attaches to BOTH strands in order to rappel. Otherwise, you rappel on one side of the rope but not the other making it unsafe. Many accidents have happened because of this, especially in the case of “biner blocks” where canyoneers attach the “pull-cord side” and not the “rappel side” of the rope.

 

DRT – stands for “Double Rope Technique.” This method involves using two ropes—typically a main rappel rope and a pull cord or another rappel line—during descents.

 

Down-climb – a technique used in order to descend (or overcome) an obstacle in the canyon, that does NOT involve rappelling.  Some people can down-climb sections in the canyon that others rappel.  That comes from experience and skill-level. Just because you see bolts in a canyon, doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to use them – especially for short rappelling canyons.  See Section 29 – Moving (Sequencing) Through a Slot Canyon,  for more information and pictures.

 

Drainage – refers to the water flow system within a canyon, including how rainwater and runoff are directed through the terrain. It encompasses the channels and paths that water takes, which can significantly influence the canyon’s features, such as pools, waterfalls, and potholes.

 

Drop– A vertical section of a canyon that requires rappelling or climbing to descend safely.

 

Dynamic Rope – a type of rope designed to stretch under load, such as when it is used for rock-climbing and/or catching a fall. This stretch helps absorb the impact forces, reducing the risk of injury or equipment damage.  Rock climbers use this rope exclusively, however, canyoneers typically use static ropes due their decreased size, easy ability to retrieve the rope after rappelling. See “static rope” for more information.

 

Egress (see “Ingress” for opposite) – refers to the process of exiting or escaping from a canyon. It involves planning and executing the route taken to leave the canyon safely, whether through a designated exit point, climbing out, or navigating back to the trailhead.

 

EDK (European Death Knot) – is a term used to describe a specific knot, also known as the Figure-Eight Follow-Through Knot. It is commonly used to connect two ropes of unequal or equal diameter together, such as the pull-cord to the rappel rope. However, I would NOT rappel on this but rather use it as a retrieving rope technique. The term “death knot” is somewhat misleading; it emphasizes the importance of proper tying and inspection because, if not tied correctly, it can lead to failure during a rappel or ascent. While the knot itself is strong and secure when properly executed, canyoneers must be vigilant in ensuring it is correctly tied.

 

Fireman Belay – see “belay” for additional information.  This bottom-belay is the most common and can be performed by most able-body people.  This is performed when the person is falling while on rappel, the “belayer” pulls down very firmly (and quickly!) the rappel rope to the ground.  The mechanic of this is that it makes the rope taught (or tight) and prevents the rappel rope from feeding through the device stopping the out-of-control rappeller from continuing on. Controlling how taught that rappel rope with the rappeller on it is how you would control their speed.

 

First-descent – this is a sought-after title within the Canyoneering Community. Canyons are still discovered/uncovered in this day and age and you get the claim the “privilege” of descending it first.

 

Free Rappel (also called “Free Hang”) – refers to a descent technique where the climber or canyoneer descends a vertical drop using a rope, but without being in contact with the rock face or using a controlled belay system. Instead, the individual is fully suspended and relies solely on the rope and their harness for support. While this type of rappel can be exhilarating, it also requires careful control of descent speed and awareness of the landing area to ensure your safety. Proper techniques are essential to perform a free rappel safely, such as dangling your backpack from your harness versus wearing it.

 

Ghosting – refers to the practice of leaving no trace of a descent or ascent in a canyon, particularly in terms of minimizing the visual and environmental impact. This includes avoiding the creation of permanent anchors or markings, cleaning up any gear or trash, and not disturbing the natural environment. The term can also describe a scenario where a canyoneer descends a route or area that is less traveled or known, often in a way that doesn’t draw attention to their passage.

 

Hand-line – this is a “canyon sequencing” technique used to traverse a slot canyon.  See Section 29 – “Moving (Sequencing) in a Slot Canyon.   Used at short rappels (less than 10-feet in height), an option of using a handline may be suggested. Rather than putting on a harness and rappelling the short distance, one could hold onto the rope as tight as they can, and slowly slide down the rope or do a hand-over-hand descent on it.  The caution is that they are not roped in, so the consequences are that they would fall if a slip was to happen.  Sometimes a hand-line is used in areas where a person is down-climbing or up-climbing an obstacle and just need something to hold onto while they navigate the obstacle.  Also, not everyone has the arm/muscle strength for a hand-line and have witnessed a few friends struggling and even slipping while using a handline.  

 

Harness – a piece of safety equipment worn that secures the person to a rope system during rappelling or rock-climbing. The harness consists of a waist belt and leg loops, which are mostly adjustable for a secure fit. Often, it includes gear loops for attaching carabiners and other equipment.

 

Hitch (rope) – refers to a type of knot that is used to secure a rope to an object, such as an anchor point, or to attach two pieces of rope together. Hitches are typically adjustable and can be easily released under tension, making them useful in various scenarios.  A popularly-used hitch includes the “clove hitch” (or “triple clove”).

 

Ingress (see “Egress” for opposite) – refers to the act of entering a canyon or a specific section of it. This includes the planning and execution of the approach to the canyon. Ingress involves considerations such as the chosen entry point, the terrain, and any potential obstacles or hazards that might be encountered.

 

Keeper Pothole – refers to a deep, water-filled hole in a canyon that can trap a person or an object. These potholes are often formed by the erosion of rock and can vary in size and depth. Keeper potholes are particularly dangerous because they may not be easily escapable, especially if the water is deep and the walls are steep or slippery. Knowing if the canyon you are descending contains one is a crucial part of the planning process.  On the execution side, having a knowledgeable and able-body team to problem solve it has to be done. Otherwise, you are literally stuck in the canyon. You won’t be able to proceed onward.

 

kN (kiloNewton) – is a unit of measurement used to quantify force, specifically in the context of load-bearing capacities of ropes, anchors, and other equipment. One kilonewton is equivalent to approximately 224.8 pounds of force. Ropes and carabiners are rated for specific kilonewton values, indicating the maximum force they can withstand before failure.

 

LDC (Left Down Canyon) – used to provide directional guidance, indicating that a route or feature is located to the left side as one descends (down) through the canyon.

 

LUC (Left Up Canyon) -used to provide directional guidance, indicating that a route or feature is located to the left side as one ascends (up) through the canyon.

 

Loop (rope) – refers to a section of rope that has been formed into a circular shape, often by tying the rope back on itself. Loops are commonly used in various applications, such as creating anchors, tying knots, or securing gear.

 

Monsoon Season – refers to the time of year, typically during the summer, when heavy rainstorms are more frequent, especially in desert regions. These storms can cause flash floods in canyons, making canyoneering dangerous and requiring extra caution.

 

Neoprene – type of synthetic rubber used to make wetsuits, neoprene booties and gloves.

 

Nylon – a strong, lightweight synthetic material commonly used for ropes, webbing, and harnesses. It is durable and resistant to abrasion, making it ideal for the rugged conditions of canyoneering.