Canyoneering Anchors – The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to Canyoneering

IN THIS MODULE

22 Canyoneering Anchors

Anchors support rappelling and other rope assistance. Evaluate every anchor before relying on it. An existing anchor may be unsuitable or damaged.

A BETTER WAY TO THINK ABOUT ANCHOR TYPES

Earlier editions grouped anchors as natural, fixed or man made, retrievable, and “meat” anchors. Those categories overlap. People build deadmen and cairns from natural materials. Retrievable describes what happens after use. Webbing may be recovered or left in place.

MINIMUM IMPACT. Good anchor construction does not grant permission to alter the canyon. Check current fixed anchor and minimum impact rules for the land manager and canyon.

NATURAL ANCHORS

Trees, roots, boulders, rocks, bollards, chockstones, pinch points, and similar features already in the canyon.

CONSTRUCTED NATURAL MATERIAL

Cairns and deadman anchors use rocks, sand, and webbing to create an anchor when a convenient natural anchor is not available.

MAN MADE (FIXED) ANCHORS

Bolts, hangers, pitons, chains, rings, and other installed metal hardware. Permanent looking does not mean maintenance free.

HUMAN / RETRIEVABLE SYSTEMS

People can be sequenced as anchors, and some systems are designed to be recovered after the final rappeller. Both add complexity.

NON NEGOTIABLE. Every anchor needs to be examined before you use it. “It was already there” is not an inspection or excuse. Your literal lives depend upon it!

NATURAL ANCHORS. USE THE CANYON

Natural anchors are common because they can minimize permanent hardware. NPS monitoring in Grand Canyon documented clean anchors using pinch points, rock chocks, boulders, trees, rock bollards, rock horns, and natural arches. The feature may be natural; the decision to trust it is still yours.

Tree anchor example. A healthy, well rooted tree may provide a strong natural anchor, but a photograph cannot establish root depth or soundness. Inspect the tree, roots, soil, sling position, and direction of pull before use.

Cairn anchor example. A primary rock captures the webbing and additional rocks reinforce it on the surface. A rock bollard is a solid natural rock projection around which the sling or rope is placed; it is not another name for a constructed rock pile.

Using a chockstone rock as an anchor. This can have some larger risk as this rock could possibly move. The chockstone is usually a rock that has fallen into the canyon and got wedged between the canyon walls. These sometimes will be strong and sturdy, and others require more examination and consideration, especially before use.

Boulder anchor example. Size and partial burial are useful observations, but stability still depends on the rock, surrounding material, webbing capture, and actual direction of load. Evaluate the complete anchor on site.

CHECK THE FEATURE. A tree can be rotten. A root can be shallow. A boulder can shift. A rock horn can fracture. Inspect the object itself, the webbing, the knot, the rope path, and the direction of pull.

CONSTRUCTED ANCHORS. CAIRNS & DEADMEN

Cairns and deadmen are built anchor systems. The ACA includes constructing, evaluating, rigging, testing, backing up and using them in its Assistant Canyon Leader progression. Learn those skills before using either system.

CAIRN ANCHOR

Webbing is captured by a primary rock and reinforced by additional rocks on the surface. Stability depends on rock mass, shape, friction, placement, direction of load, and whether the pile can shift.

DEADMAN ANCHOR

A rock (typical) with webbing tired around is buried and loaded against surrounding material. Much of the system can be hidden, so construction quality and testing matter. Even if it means, digging it back up to inspect it.

BRETT’S OPINION. If you did not build a cairn or deadman and you cannot confidently evaluate it, so you most likely need to disassemble it and put it back together. Unfortunately, this will take some time, but it’s not regrettable as this is your lifeline. You have to get it right.

MAN MADE (FIXED) ANCHORS

Fixed anchors are installed in or left on the rock. Zion defines fixed anchors broadly and includes bolts, pitons, and webbing; in everyday canyon conversation, people often use “fixed anchor” to mean installed metal hardware. Either way, permanency can create false confidence.

Quick links and related hardware may form part of the finished rappel station. Inspect them along with the rock and the rest of the anchor.

Bolts and hangers. A bolt or glue in anchor is installed in the rock; a separate hanger, when present, provides the external attachment. Mechanical anchors may expand a sleeve or wedge inside a drilled hole. Inspect both the hardware and surrounding rock; hidden installation quality cannot be confirmed by appearance alone.

Typically, chains are connected to both bolts and hangers and you are left with a single chain which is connected to a rapide. Examine every part of this setup for any damage and replace as necessary.

DO NOT ASSUME. A bolt attached to the wall is not automatically safe. Placement, age, corrosion, looseness, damage, surrounding rock, and the hardware that the rope actually touches all matter.

WEBBING

Webbing is one of the most common materials you will see at canyon anchors. It connects the chosen anchor feature to the rappel point, but webbing does not magically improve a poor anchor. Old webbing around a bad rock is still a bad anchor.

Anchor webbing should be inspected along its entire accessible length, including abrasion points and portions hidden behind or beneath rock.

INSPECT SOFT GOODS

Cuts, fraying, glazing, stiffness, severe fading, chemical contamination, abrasion, damaged stitching (if present), and a compromised knot are all reasons to stop and reassess.

INSPECT METAL

Quick links, rings, chains, and hangers can wear at the rope path, develop sharp edges, deform, loosen, or corrode. Look at the surface that will actually carry the load.

REMEMBER. More webbing is not automatically more safety. One sound, well routed system is more meaningful than a nest of questionable material.

RETRIEVABLE & HUMAN ANCHORS

RETRIEVABLE ANCHORS

With ghosting, the group retrieves the anchor material after the last descent. Plan for stuck ropes, failed pulls, loading from the wrong side and problems affecting the last person.

“MEAT” ANCHORS

One or more people act as the anchor or counterweight for another person. Plan the order of descent carefully. The last person will need a different solution once the human anchor has gone.

These are important concepts to recognize, but they should not be learned by improvising in a canyon. The ACA specifically treats human anchor sequencing and more complex anchor/rigging systems as skills that require progression, practice, and judgment. This book, however, won’t go into detail about using these types of anchors as these are expert level anchors (in my opinion) that absolutely need supervision and expert guidance.

ADVANCE SKILL. Understand what these systems are. Learn and practice the actual setup, backup, sequencing, and failure response with competent hands on instruction before depending on them.

ANCHOR OR RIGGING?

The anchor resists the load. Rigging is the arrangement of rope, webbing, hardware and friction used with that anchor. Keeping the terms separate makes problems easier to trace.

CHOOSING AN ANCHOR. THINK EARNEST

The American Canyoneering Association (ACA) uses EARNEST to assess anchors. The letters stand for Equalized, Angle, Redundant, No Extension, Strong and Timely. No Extension is one combined principle. ACA introduces EARNEST for fixed artificial anchors in Core training and applies it to natural anchors with multiple points as skills progress.

EQUALIZED. In a multi point anchor, arrange the system so the available points share the intended load as deliberately as practical. A slack leg is not sharing the load.

ANGLE. Consider the angle between the legs of a multi point anchor. As the angle opens, the force carried by each anchor point increases. Keep the geometry appropriate for the placements and the expected direction of pull.

REDUNDANT. Build the system so one foreseeable component failure does not automatically become total anchor failure. Redundancy should be purposeful, not decorative.

NO EXTENSION. If a point shifts or fails, minimize extension and the sudden shock load that could be transferred to the components that remain.

STRONG. The anchor features, rock or soil, webbing or cord, knots, metal hardware, and connectors must be strong and stable for the intended load and direction of pull.

TIMELY. Build, inspect, and operate the anchor efficiently without sacrificing safety. In a canyon, time, daylight, weather, cold, and group fatigue all matter.

PLUS

CANYON SPECIFIC CHECK. EARNEST is the anchor construction framework, not the entire canyon decision. Also consider changing direction of pull, the last person, rope retrieval, rope grooves or rock damage, and current land manager rules.