Definitionally, a “hitch” knot attaches rope to an object, and the Clove Hitch is one of the most useful examples. Its major canyon application is the carabiner block used for a single-strand rappel system.
That also creates one of the most important human-factors problems in canyon rigging: the group must know which strand is the rappel side and which side is blocked.
PROS
• Fast to tie and untie.
• Can be tied one-handed with practice.
• Useful for carabiner-block and temporary attachment applications.
CONS
• The basic blocked setup is not the same thing as a releasable lowering system.
• A mistake about which strand to rappel on can have catastrophic consequences.
CAUTION: Inspect and firmly dress the hitch, verify that the complete block cannot pass through the rappel hardware, and identify the load-bearing rappel strand. Extra wraps do not correct incompatible hardware, poor dressing, or choosing the wrong strand. Practice the exact rope-and-carabiner combination with a qualified instructor.
CANYONEERING USAGE
Create a quickly adjustable temporary attachment to a locking carabiner at an anchor or work position.
Adjust rope length at an anchor without fully untying the hitch.
Use as the clove-hitch component of a carabiner block when that blocking method is part of the rigging plan.
Use the Triple Clove variation taught here when extra wraps are intentionally desired for the specific canyon system.
Keep the hitch on the carabiner spine and away from the gate, then lock and inspect the carabiner.
ADDITIONAL READING:
• Petzl – Knots (Clove Hitch)
• American Canyoneering Academy – Need-To-Know Canyon Knots
• CMC Pro – Learn Your Knots: Clove Hitch
• CanyoneeringUSA – Biner Blocks and Pull Cord Techniques for Backcountry Canyoneering
• The Mountaineers – Standard Techniques
• Petzl – Climbing with Alternate Leaders (clove-hitch anchor context)
CLOVE HITCH
01
Lay the rope flat and leave enough working end to make two open loops beside each other.
02
Form the first loop by turning the rope over itself as shown.
CLOVE HITCH
03
Form a second loop beside the first in the same rotational direction.
04
Move one loop over the other so the two loops overlap. Keep both openings visible.
CLOVE HITCH
05
Clip a locking carabiner through BOTH overlapping loops. Make sure neither loop is missed.
06
Slide and seat the hitch on the carabiner spine, away from the gate and locking sleeve.
CLOVE HITCH
07
Pull both rope strands to snug the Clove Hitch. Dress the two wraps neatly around the carabiner.
08
Lock the carabiner and perform a final check. If the hitch is part of a carabiner block, clearly identify the rappel strand before loading the system.
CAUTION
When used as a biner block, confirm that the carabiner cannot pass through the rappel ring or rapide. Keep the block on the carabiner spine, lock the carabiner, and clearly identify the rappel strand before anyone loads the system.
TRIPLE CLOVE HITCH
01
Create three open loops in the rope. Keep them loose and clearly separated so their orientation is easy to see.
02
Arrange the three loops side by side in the same orientation.
TRIPLE CLOVE HITCH
03
Bring the three loops together and clip the locking carabiner through the center of ALL THREE loops as shown. Confirm every loop is captured.
04
Pull the two rope strands away from the carabiner so the loops collapse into three wraps on the spine. Keep the wraps together and clear of the gate.
TRIPLE CLOVE HITCH
STEP-BY-STEP
05
Rotate or slide the hitch onto the carabiner spine and snug it by pulling both strands.
06
Dress the three wraps neatly, lock the carabiner, and inspect the finished Triple Clove before loading it.
KNOT GUIDE